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Digital Camera

Photo 116

When photographers discuss exposure, they mean the amount of light entering the lens and penetrating the film or CCD sensor. Exposure is the meat and potatoes of photography. Without light, there would be no image.

Modern day digital cameras by default come with a series of settings that automatically adjust the exposure without any worry from the photographer.

So why bother manually adjusting your exposure when the camera does such a wonderful job?

There are many reasons.

Probably one of the biggest arguments is the fact that the camera will readjust the settings anew every time you push the shutter button. Which means the slightest change could completely throw off the exposure settings from the previous picture.

For example, if you took a picture of a person wearing a red shirt. The camera would adjust the camera to properly expose the persons skin tone, the red shirt, and the background. Now, if you wanted take a second picture with the person in red standing beside a new person wearing a dark brown shirt this could completely throw off the pictures exposure. The camera will now try exposing the dark brown shirt as much as possible. This will in effect cause the skin tone to be more washed out and brighter then the previous picture. As your scene changes, so will the cameras exposure settings. Taking a series of pictures in one place could result in a variety of exposed pictures.

One benefit of having control over your exposure is experimenting; allowing as much or as little light as you want. Being creative with your exposure can result in some pretty amazing shots:

Over Exposed Under Exposed

So, now that you are prepared to use the manual settings, how does it work?

The Diaphragm:

Every camera has a shutter diaphragm. It's essentially a circular doorway to the film or sensor. Imagine a futuristic spaceship door from Star Wars or Star Trek and you wont be too far off. As you press your shutter release button (the button that takes the picture) the diaphragm opens and closes allowing light to pass through into the camera. There are two functions that control the diaphragm, the aperture and the shutter speed.

Adjusting Aperture (f-stop):

When looking at your cameras display, you will notice a f-number. It will look something like F5.6. This is your f-stop or fraction number. The f-stop controls the aperture size, or how much the diaphragm opens. The theory behind how f-stops work can be quite complicated. So for now, let's just stick to a simple formula:

The f-stop number controls how wide the shutter diaphragm opens. The lower the number is on your display, for example F2.6, the wider the diaphragm will open and the more light will will expose your picture. The larger the number, for example F8.0, the smaller the opening and the less light will be let in.

F8.0 (Less Light) F2.6 (More Light)

Your lens greatly effects how wide your aperture can go. Most stock lenses will have an f-stop range of F3.5 to F16. If you own a SLR camera and decide to purchase a new lens, you can get lenses that allow your aperture to go as wide as F1.4.

Aperture also plays a role in controlling the depth of field. The larger the aperture is (F2.0) the shallower the depth of field is. Thus the more blurry the background would be.

Image Image
F1.8 (Shallow Depth of Field) F8.0 (Wide Depth of Field)


Setting your Shutter Speed:

Now that you know the aperture controls how wide the diaphragm opens - now we can move on to the shutter speed and that it controls how fast the diaphragm opens and closes. When snapping a picture, the button you press to take it is called the shutter release. It tells the shutter diaphragm to open and close and how fast. You will hear two click sounds. That is in fact, the sound of the diaphragm doing its thing.

Along side the f-stop number, you'll notice another number which looks like 1/100 or 1/60. This is your Shutter Speed. The number is how fast the diaphragm will open. For example: 1/100 means 1/100th of a second. Normally that would be considered pretty darn fast. When it comes to photography, 1/100 can be considered slow. You can increase your shutter speed up to 1/1000 which equals 1/1000th of a second. Super fast.

Like opening and closing the size of the aperture, how fast the shutter opens for also effects the exposure. The faster it opens the less light gets in. You have to balance between your shutter speed and your aperture to control your image.

So what are the advantages of the shutter?

Have you ever taken a photo in a darker situation and it turns out blurry because you're hands shake a little. This happens because you move a little while the shutter is open at a slower speed. Yo only notice this when the shutter goes below 1/40sec. The shutter opens for a lot longer than it would at 1/1000sec. So it picks up more information.

Using a tripod in conjunction with longer shutter speeds can produce some pretty cool effects (see River image above). It also removes the chance of "shaky" pictures.

So how do I use Aperture and Shutter Speed together?

Depending on what you want to accomplish with your photograph you would use one and readjust the other. For example: If you wanted to take a picture that had a shallow depth of field and a lot was out of focus, you would set your aperture as low as you possibly can get it (F1.8). Because now your aperture is wide open a lot of light will be exposing your picture. You can adjust your shutter speed to a higher speed in order to let less light in.

On the flip side, if you trying to shoot a picture with a lot of motion blur you will need to set your shutter speed to a low speed (1/20sec). This will also let a lot of light in. In order to balance the exposure you will have to close your aperture.

Bracketing:

One of the most commonly used techniques by photographers is bracketing. It is more of a safety blanket, rather than a technique. When taking a picture, you take a series of three photos. The first should be at the exposure you feel is correct. The second should be one f-stop under exposure, and the third should be one f-stop over exposure. This is best done when you have the chance. Run and gun photography doesn't often allow for this.

For example:

One f-stop over (F2.4) Correct Exposure (F3.4) One f-stop under (F5.6)

When downloading your photos to your computer you will have a choice of three exposures. You may catch a photo that looks better slightly over exposed or under exposed. This technique is best used when you want to capture a very important picture.

If you don't want to effect your depth of field, try bracketing with your Shutter Speed.

And the Conclusion:

Although you can't see how the settings will effect your photo until you've taken the picture. Over time you'll be able to assess the situation more easily and more often than not you will correctly expose your picture on the first or second try. Or at least be pretty close.

Don't get frustrated if you don't get it right away. Most photographers use a light meter or take multiple pictures over a variety of exposures. It will come with time, practice and after taking a LOT of photos.

Homework: 'Expose yourself'


  1. Andrew Pilipczuk saidFri, 28 Mar 2008 00:07:54 -0000 ( Link )

    With regards to the bracketing section, how would 1/140 be over exposed and 1/60 under exposed? Are they suppose to be the other way around, or have I missed something?

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  2. debraj saidSat, 10 May 2008 13:12:47 -0000 ( Link )

    Andrew has a point. unles there’s a misprint somewhere.

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  3. lechuck saidWed, 11 Jun 2008 19:47:15 -0000 ( Link )

    Fixed :)

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  4. sameer saidFri, 20 Jun 2008 09:27:20 -0000 ( Link )

    Dunno if this is the right place to post this question. I want to photograph light flowing through say a tree or through clouds or a window pane.. How does one go about doing that?

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  5. lechuck saidMon, 23 Jun 2008 15:46:02 -0000 ( Link )

    Hi Sameer, I am guessing you are looking for that cool “light beam” look. This is actually pretty hard to accomplish because it requires the right natural scene. When you see a image with light beams, it is the light reflecting off clouds, mist, or smoke. In order to get this you would have to take a picture while there is one of these elements. It is most commonly seen when there is a light mist. I’ve attached an image for you to see:

    What you may want to try, though I’ve never experimented with it. Try creating a light mist of smoke in your house, nothing too heavy, after that try to capture light coming through your window pane… it should create that look.

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  6. chandrasekharkatta saidThu, 13 Nov 2008 06:06:51 -0000 ( Link )

    good photography was done by goo photographer

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